Restaurant Review: Tandooori, A Taste of India

Priya Tandoori,

As the sign on your door reads “Taste of India,” I have to take your word for it as I've never traveled that remotely in my life. The aromas wafting from the kitchen make me feel as if I'm seated in my own personal spice cabinet. I can only imagine the spread of food that pile high on my dinner plate, and I smile.

When my recurring dining partner and I take our seats, we agree to make this collation strictly vegetarian (not vegan, just to note). We begin with something that we're familiar with, but on our terms has been taken to a new level. Nan bread is an unleavened bread similar to pita, but it can be devoured just as quickly as the typical French baguette and butter. For this order, the Onion Kulcha, is a Nan that is topped with onions and black pepper with a cilantro dipping sauce that can make any basil pesto blush.

When one hears the term “cutlet,” naturally the first thing that comes to mind is a flattened piece of breaded chicken. This may be true for those who grew up in New York, but let’s remember that this meal is vegetarian. The breading is still there, but under the flawless crisp is a mixture of ground vegetables that brings a heartiness to the beginning of the meal.

If one orders your Masala Dosa, you can be sure the table next to you will be asking their server, “What is that?” This paper thin crepe stuffed with potatoes and peas is rolled as long as a baseball bat -- well maybe not that long, but the presentation is quite dramatic on the table. The edges of the roll are crisp like a potato chip, but the closer one bites towards the fluffy potato-filled middle and continues to dip each dosa bite in the coconut lentil sauce, the light feeling is as though one were biting into a flavor filled cloud.

As quickly as one server is clearing the plates from our appetizers, another man is following to fill the voided space with our entrées, as another man is in back to fill our wine glasses. Your service is responsible yet sociable.

Looking at the entrées, the chock-full-of-appetizer feeling quickly left my stomach. As a “matter” of fact, the Matter Paneer -- green peas and homemade cheese cubes in a creamy tomato sauce -- was an enjoyable selection in terms of not having any meat. The words cheese and cream may evoke a heavy dish, but the marinated, dense cubes of cheese were the perfect meaty meal substitution.

Tandoori, your vegetable curry was delicious. But can I be totally honest with you? It needs more vegetables. The curry was flavorful and delightfully fragrant, but I found myself digging around in the sauce in search of more vegetables. Bulk up on the veggies, and the dish would be close to perfect.

To round out our meal, the Dum Biriyani gathered all of the Indian ingredients we had yet to experience. This basmati rice was seasoned with curry, saffron and cinnamon. The red and golden raisins hit a sweet spot on our tongue, while the yogurt sauce created a tangy sensation. Well done.

With bellies filled to the brim we are ever so grateful you are located in Port Chester and not a far car ride away from home. It’s nice to experience the flavors from another country knowing that you don’t have to buy a plane ticket or update your passport. But, if given the opportunity to fly to your native India, it’s nice to have something to compare the food with.

Thank you again Tandoori, you are in my mind truly, “A Taste of India.”

Best,

Hailee Moore