Does Bartaco Live Up to Its Hype?

The first time I heard about bartaco, it was as part of a rant.

Two of my friends went by not too long after it opened, and could not find a positive thing to say about the bar/restaurant. Too many polo shirts, too many customers addressing each other as "bro," too much loud pop music, not enough beer on tap.

Reviews from food critics and regular customers tell a different story.

The New York Times said the experience was ‘worth it’; Serendipity Magazine ranked the Baja Fish Taco the best throughout Westchester and Connecticut; and the restaurant made the cut as one of Westchester’s Magazine’s "Best of Westchester" for 2011. One Yelp user exclaimed that, “the quality of the food is right up there with some of the best Mexican food I've had in Westchester.”

I was intrigued enough to try it.

Three friends and I headed to bartaco this past Friday night after calling ahead for a reservation.

“Oh I’m sorry, we only take reservations for parties of 10 or more,” the hostess, amidst a lot of noise, said on the phone.  

“Do you think you will be busy tonight?” I asked.

“Oh yes,” she replied.

When we arrived at 8:30 p.m., people were already hanging around the outside with bottles of beer and cigarettes, enjoying some fresh air away from the crowded bar inside.

The rest of the restaurant was no different - almost every table was full.

Bar Taco is split into three sections. A bar is in the center, bookended by two eating areas. Although all are part of the same theme, each has its own feel and tempo. The small dining area to the left (where we sat) is the most formal, with white chairs and tables. Adjacent to the bar area, this section is quiet enough for conversations without getting drowned out by the crowd and the music.

Walking through the opening to the bar, the volume increases two-fold. Loud pop music, margaritas, and mingling make up the scene. With few bar stools and scattered tables, most people were standing.

The outdoor eating area meshes the two inside areas, to create a comfortable lounge with cushioned benches, and footstools, hidden under a canopy of blue umbrellas.

The overall ambiance and décor is an upscale beach shack. The New York Times described the feel as, “Ralph Lauren through a surfers haze.” I might take it a step further. If Hollister and American Eagle decided to get together and open up a restaurant, Bar Taco would be the love child.

The ordering was not typical. Instead of speaking to your waiter or waitress, you grab a golf pencil, a cue card, and check off your dinner selections. Don't like onions on your tacos? There's room on the order cards where customers can scribble quick notes to their servers.

Our dinner party got the sample tray of coaster-sized soft-shelled tacos for $33, which included seven or eight different tacos, guacamole, and tamales.

The good: This is the first time I have not run out of guacamole with left over chips; all the tacos were tasty, and exotic; and the tamales were a nice combination of fish, potato, and cheese cocooned in leaf paper. 

The bad: The food came out super quick for a busy night (nine minutes after the order to be exact); our waiter did not tell us the types of tacos we were eating (our fault for not asking); and water glasses remained empty for a while.

The rest of our food came from the ‘not taco’ section. Assorted gorditas (bottle cap-sized fried cakes stuffed with meat and cheese) disappeared quickly. The gazpacho took longer to disappear. (The thick, but not chunky, cold tomato soup acted as an “adios to summer” dish.) Even the roasted chicken impressed the table; moist and juicy on the inside with a crispy skin spiced perfectly.

Bartaco is neither bashful, nor elementary when it comes to mixology. A long list of tequilas will sit well with agave aficionados. The variety of mixed drinks will be a welcome sight for everyone from mojito to rum and coke drinkers.

Our table ordered sangria in true Latin fashion. Be prepared to pay for the pitchers of wine and juice. You are obligated to purchase a bottle of wine and pay six dollars on top of that for the mixture. (The cheapest option will run you $36)

For dessert, skip the churros – unless you have never tasted a churro before. Chocolate tamales are a bit more original, and gelato will cure your sweet tooth.

As the night went on, the crowd grew in number and shrank in age. When we first arrived, there were plenty of couples and singles over 30, and some into their 50s, enjoying a drink or dinner. By the time we left, the 20-somethings claimed the territory.

Attracting people from Byram, Rye, Greenwich, and beyond, Bar Taco is rarely thin on customers. If you enjoy the bar scene, head there after 9:30 p.m. If you want to go for a quiet sit down meal, lunch is a good option. And if it's still too crowded for your tastes, a second location is coming soon to Stamford.

For more information on bartaco check out www.bartaco.com or call (914)-937-TACO.